The Complete Sunscreen Guide: What to look for in a healthy and eco-friendly sunscreen [Week 22]

Posted On July 14, 2021

Let’s dig into what the experts say about sunscreen, your health and the environment.

Amanda Drews, 19 minute read (I swear it will be worth your time, it’s a complete guide, not a quick guide!)

What you want in the perfect sunscreen

The sun is shining and you want to spend time outdoors enjoying it! But you also want to protect your skin from those glorious, yet cancer causing rays. Easy. Cover your entire body up with some SPF protective clothing.

Oh, you actually wanted to wear shorts or a tank top? Throw on some sunscreen right?

Oh, but you also want it to be safe for your body as you slather it onto the largest organ you have (psst… that’s your skin). And you don’t want to look like a white walker in a bikini because it didn’t rub in all the way. But you don’t want to spend a lot of time rubbing it in on you or your wriggly little kids. It needs to actually protect you so it has to be broad-spectrum with a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of at least 30 and water-resistant. It has to be affordable, available and from a company that ISN’T totally evil. Oh ya, and you give a damn about the health of the environment.

Whoah. That’s a lot to consider.

These last few years for me have been all about trying to figure out what the most practical and eco-friendly solutions are for my every day choices. With sunscreen, I’ve heard everything from “sunscreen-everyday-always” to “the cancer you’re going to get from the sunscreen you’re wearing will be worse than the skin cancer you’ll get from the sun.”

So let’s do some digging and figure out what the science world says.

What you’re fighting against

Skin cancer

Let’s just start out by saying, the sun can cause skin cancer. The best way for you to avoid getting said cancer is by avoiding the sun at peak hours, covering up and seeking shade (although still wear sunscreen even when you’re in the shade).

Here in Minnesota, we have some surprisingly high melanoma rates according to the CDC Cancer Statistics At A Glance. We have many outdoor activities here and are just so darn excited for the summer! When it comes, we want to be outside all the time in order to savor every above freezing moment. We also aren’t used to having sunscreen in our daily routine and it might take a nasty sunburn or two to remind us.

I have a personal policy on wearing a combination of sunscreen, hats and long clothing every day June-August. However, before and after those months, I feel like I need a bit of sun to not look completely pasty. I need to work on extending those dates out a bit.

“your risk of developing potentially deadly melanoma doubles with a history of 5 or more sunburns.”

-skincancer.org

Sunburns and tanning are both signs of cellular damage. Getting tan before you go on a sunny beach vacation won’t protect you from the sun while you’re on your trip (Mayo Clinic). Sunburns are especially worrisome though. Skincancer.org states that “your risk of developing potentially deadly melanoma doubles with a history of 5 or more sunburns.” That damage builds up with repeated sun exposure.

And if you’re for some reason not worried about skin cancer, at least think of the wrinkles!

UVB and UVA rays

When we talk about protecting yourself from the sun, what we really mean is the ultraviolet radiation from the sun. Before 2011, the SPF on a sunscreen only gave you information on how much the product protected you against UVB rays that cause sunburns, not the UVA rays that can cause skin aging and contribute to skin cancer (FDA, 2011). Only sunscreens labeled “Broad Spectrum” have passed tests indicating the product “provides UVA protection that is proportional to it’s UVB protection.

In other words, seek out sunscreens with Broad Spectrum protection.

Sunscreen use effects on your health

Increased skin cancer from sunscreen use? Probably not.

One thing I’ve heard is that using sunscreen can increase your chances of getting skin cancer. This is where we put on our critical thinking caps and use those statistics classes. If a person uses sunscreen more, they are typically more likely to be outside or in a sunnier place. A person who drives their car more often is probably more likely to get in an accident than someone who rarely drives. And cautious drivers are more likely to be safer than those who aren’t paying attention. Just remember you have to reapply sunscreen after 2 hours (depending on your water activity), make sure you get full coverage (about a shot glass worth for your body) and buy the right kind.

Vitamin D

We need Vitamin D to regulate calcium and phosphate use in the body in order to keep muscles, bones and teeth healthy (NHS). Sunscreen works by blocking UVB rays which you need for vitamin D generation. However, most people don’t wear enough sunscreen or don’t reapply as often as they should so they shouldn’t have an issue with getting enough Vitamin D in warmer months (Health.harvard.edu).

The amount of time you need in the sun to get your dosage of Vitamin D varies with skin color. Generally, it’s recommended that people need 15 minutes a day of sun exposure. But I’ve also found 4-19 minutes in the summer and 37 minutes to 3 hours in the winter, all depending on how light or dark your skin is (Vitamin D for Dummies)! The darker your skin, the more time is needed. Medical News Today‘s recommendation is that if you are only going outside to get your vitamin D for the day, go out at peak sunny hours ( I know that’s opposite of what you generally do to avoid sunburns) and expose more skin (like your back and legs) in order to get your dose the quickest and avoid burns.

If you are worried about not getting enough vitamin D, ask your doctor about supplements you can take. Having a Vitamin D rich diet can help as well. Food such as Cod liver oil, trout, salmon, some mushrooms, milk, sardines, eggs and Vitamin D fortified milks and cereals will help your intake (NIH).

Chemicals in sunscreen

When it comes to sunscreen, you have two options: physical blockers or chemical blockers. The physical blockers physically block the suns rays like a shield by covering up your skin with with either zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. Webmd.com says to look for sunscreens that combine the two because zinc oxide alone won’t provide you with full-broad spectrum protection.

Chemical blockers are absorbed into your skin and in turn absorb the sun’s rays and release them as heat. They are typically easier to rub in and don’t leave as much of a white residue behind. Oxybenzone has gained some attention for being a potential hormone disrupter (something that can cross cell membranes that could change how your hormones are produced) but Harvard Health says those studies were done on rats fed oxybenzone and it would take “an individual 277 years of sunscreen use to achieve the equivalent systemic dose that produced effects”.

The American Academy of Dermatology explains how the FDA classifies ingredients in sunscreen. GRASE (generally recognized as safe and effective) ingredients include those physical blockers titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Non-GRASE ingredients include PABA and Tolamine salicylate, which you will not legally find in sunscreens in the United States.

The FDA is calling for more studies on the following to determine their GRASE statuses. This doesn’t mean they are dangerous, they just want to learn more about them.

While not outright dangerous, it is important to note that those ingredients have raised some safety flags. When applied to the skin, they do get absorbed by your body and can be detected in your bloodstream, breast milk, and urine. There are studies finding some correlation between sunscreen use and endometriosis, changes in testosterone in children, and breast cancer. BUT many of the abstracts that I’ve read (since I don’t have access to some of the journals) states there needs to be more research on the subject or that even with findings, they don’t recommend discontinuing the use of sunscreen. Overall, It seems to be there’s not enough corroborating evidence to prove there are immediate risks to using these ingredients. Still, if I were pregnant or breastfeeding, I would opt for the physical blockers.

Like with anything, there may be ingredients in a product that could cause potential allergic reactions, so that’s going to have to be something you and your doctor figure out.

What’s the deal with nanoparticles?

Nanoparticles, also known as microparticles, are super tiny sized particles less than one-billionth of a meter thick. Now I’m talking about the particle sizes of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide that you commonly find in more “natural” sunscreens. They are what make your sunscreen easier to rub in so you don’t have the classic white lifeguard nose. There have been some concerns about whether or not these nanoparticles are absorbed through your skin and enter your bloodstream. This 2017 Literature review from the Australian Government Department of Health concluded that the nanoparticles in question “either do not penetrate or minimally penetrate the stratum corneum and underlying layers of skin. This suggests that systemic absorption, hence toxicity, is highly unlikely.”

The Cancer Council mentions a 2014 study where human immune cells effectively absorbed and broke down zinc oxide nanoparticles when exposed but I couldn’t find a link or the actual study. This would suggest that even if these particles were absorbed, the body would not be harmed by them.

Overall, it seems more research is needed on the long term effects of topical application of nanoparticle sunscreens especially since most of the previous research has been done on the effects of ingestion. This article from NIH says, “the likelihood of harm from the use of sunscreens containing nanoparticles is low” and goes on to recommend the continued use of sunscreen to combat skin cancer.

However, read on to read about the effects of nanoparticles in the environment.

What about spray on and powdered sunscreens?

Spray on sunscreen allows us a fighting chance to actually get sunscreen on our kids as they try to wriggle away to play outside. Powdered sunscreens allow application over makeup. But are they a healthy option?

Titanium dioxide (TiO2) is classified as a “possible human carcinogen upon inhalation” by the International Agency for Research on Cancer. So titanium dioxide on skin = good. Breathed in=not so great.

This animal study from the National Center for Biotechnology Information reports that “on inhalation exposure the particles deposit in the lung, where they may cause chronic inflammation and lung-tissue damage, which can lead to lung-tumour development” with exposure to nano-sized TiO2 particles representing a higher risk than submicron-sized ones. Those particles may “translocate to distant organs and tissues, which may be associated with systemic effects, such as allergy, asthma and cardiovascular effects.” They also note that since these studies are done on rats, results may not translate across species.

The coverage you get from both spray on and powdered sunscreen is also not as effective as a lotion. Spots tend to get missed or not covered enough with spray on sunscreens. It’s just harder to see when you only have a clear shine versus a big white spot. With powdered sunscreens, you still have to apply it over top a regular sunscreen for it to be effective. When you do use it, the application should be pretty thick. If you are applying it the right way, you will be going through those small containers every few days! That to me seems like a waste of your money and an added item that’s just going to end up in the trash since most packaging I’ve seen looks too small to recycle even if they are made out of the right materials.

In the future, I will be avoiding powdered and spray on sunscreen, but if a spray on sunscreen is your only option, here’s some tips for use from Consumer Reports:

• Spray it on your hands and then rub it on your skin. Especially around the face.
• Never breathe it in.
• Don’t use spray sunscreen on windy days. Not only will you be missing spots and receiving ineffective coverage as well as wasting it, but someone else on the beach may end up inhaling it. This could be a big problem for kids with asthma.
• Rub it in for good coverage even if it says it’s a “no rub” product.
• Grilling, having a fire or getting out the sparklers for the 4th? Skip spray on sunscreen all together. The alcohol in it is flammable and could cause burns.

Sunscreen effects on the environment

Lately you may have seen sunscreens labeled “Reef Safe”. You may have heard about Hawaii banning sunscreens with oxybenzone and octinoxate (effective now). What’s that all about? First of all, reef safe is not a regulated label, so you’ll have to take a peek at the ingredients.

While oxybenzone (also known as Benzophenone-3) is great at protecting you from the sun’s harmful rays, it’s not so great for the health of our oceans. With some types of coral larva (known as planula), oxybenzone acts as a skeletal endocrine disruptor. Basically, it causes those planula to encase themselves in their own skeletons rendering them immobile. Corals are seen developing more lesions, becoming more susceptible to viruses, and coral bleaching has become a huge problem in areas with higher concentrations of oxybenzone. (Downs, C.A., Kramarsky-Winter, E., Segal, R. et al.)

Coral bleaching is perhaps the most jarring visual sign that our coral reefs are being harmed. Some reef-building corals have symbiotic relationships with these tiny algae cells called zooanthellae. These little guys settle into the tissues of coral polyps where it’s nice and safe for them. This is what gives corals reefs some of their spectacular colors. Since zooanthellae are photosynthetic, they produce oxygen and all sorts of useful nutrients for the coral.

You know how they say you get gray hairs when you’re stressed out? Well, it’s kind of the same for coral. If a polyp gets stressed, it pushes out those zooanthellae resulting in a white chunk of coral. Those coral polyps will likely die if the zooanthellae doesn’t return (NOAA). Coral reefs grow when those polyps secrete their calcium carbonate skeletons. They can’t do that without the zooanthellae providing them with the necessary energy.

Who cares? Well, about a half a billion people. That’s how many people rely on coral reefs as a source of income, food, coastal protection, and as a tourism attraction. Also, a quarter of marine life uses coral reefs for shelter, spawning, or feeding according to the EPA.

So what are you looking for on the labels?

The HEL list below is what you wan to AVOID in a sunscreen in order for it to be safer for our coral reefs:

General Resources: National Ocean Service, Morro Bay, EHP, Coral Reef Alliance

I stopped in my local dive shop before we went to the Great Barrier Reef and saw they only sold sunscreen labeled “reef safe”. When I turned each bottle to look at the ingredients, all of them had harmful chemicals for coral reefs. I asked my dive instructor about it and he said that he wasn’t a chemist so he didn’t know anything about it. This is someone who leads trips around the world to go diving and he’s selling this stuff in his store! He may not be a chemist, but it is his responsibility to look into what he is selling.

What about freshwater lakes and streams?

Even if you are no where near the ocean, it seems best practice to still use reef friendly sunscreen. Even when you’re showering, that water goes somewhere. Really it’s all just one big system when you think about it. There have been some concerns about estrogenic effects (changes in hormones) in exposed fish as well as growing concern about how sunscreen ingredients affect low levels of the food chain.

And those nanoparticles that we talked about earlier? They can not only damage coral reefs, but the cell walls of the good microbes we use to clean wastewater. Yuck! I would prefer my treated water to be treated properly.

Sunscreen packaging as waste

When we talk about reducing the amount of waste we generate, sunscreen may be one of those areas where you can be a little more relaxed in. Typically, I want to find the product I love the most and buy the biggest container of it that I can find to save on packaging waste. With sunscreen, we have to keep in mind that it has an expiration date and won’t be as effective after that date. So unless you are responsible for sun-screening up your kids entire soccer team for the summer, you may not want to buy an industrial sized bottle.

The other part of that is bigger bottles are less convenient to carry around and you want to be able to shove tiny bottles of sunscreen in your purse in case you need them. But don’t store sunscreen in a hot car as that can degrade it faster and make it less efficient.

Those smaller bottles are also important if you are packing them in a carry on as TSA counts them as a liquid and requires them to be less than 3.4 ounces. You can pack a full size one in your checked bag. Put it inside another bag or hard sided container though so it doesn’t accidentally open and get all over your clothes! Learned that lesson. You can also buy those reusable little travel bottles and put sunscreen from your larger bottle in there. Or better yet, reuse a small hotel shampoo bottle.

All that being said, if you are doing a good job at covering up and avoiding the sun at it’s peak, you’ll save on waste by not using as much sunscreen in the first place.

How are sunscreens ranked?

Each group you’ll find in internet searches has a different way of ranking their recommended products and choosing what ingredients go into their own products. Here are links to how some of the top groups choose which sunscreens they recommend. Note: I did not do any research into how any of these groups were affiliated or linked to any companies that produce sunscreen.

• Environmental Working Group
• Haereticus Environmental Laboratory
• The Beauty Counter Never List
• Consumer Reports

1. Avoid the sun during the hottest parts of the day.
2. Look in your wardrobe to see what you have that will act as a good cover up. Have a couple go-to outfits that you can wear when it’s sunny out that will still protect your skin. Long sleeved swimsuits are in! Take advantage of that.
3. Keep hats and sunglasses in places where you will be reminded to wear them.
4. Seek out sunscreens that avoid ingredients on the HEL list, are non-nano sized, have an SPF of 30-50, and are broad spectrum.
5. Consult with your doctor or dermatologist for their best recommendations for you.
6. Dispose of any sunscreens you have that are more than a couple years old.
7. Check back here for my personal review of sunscreens I’ve tried that claim to be eco-friendly.